Crossover of tradition & modernity
After having spent six days in Hong Kong just recently and ten days two years before I feel confident about what to see in this fascinating city as a first-timer but also as a repeat visitor. I have identified must-do attractions and such ones you should do when having more time. This first post will be about things ever visitor has to put on its agenda when being in Hong Kongfor the first time.
Overview
Many people
familiar with Hong Kong recommend visiting Victoria
Peak as first thing and I agree with this. There is no other place than the
highest mountain of Hong Kong Island where you get such a good overview of this
extensive city. But only do this when the visibility is good, otherwise it is of
no use.
After this
overview of Hong Kong it is a good thing to go to the core of the city, to Central, the nearest area that you have
just seen from above. Go from bottom to top, but do not worry, you do not have
to walk all the way up. As Hong Kong Island is rather hilly an escalator was
built to facilitate moving between Harbor Front and Mid-Level, the Mid-Levels Escalator.
After going
from north to south and back you probably want to explore the area in the west
and the east. And once again you do not have to walk because you can ride one
of Hong Kong’s trams, a funny way to
discover the neighborhoods around Central.
Then of
course you want to see Hong Kong’s famous skyline.
For this purpose, another tourist attraction, the Star Ferry comes handy. Just by riding this historic ferry carrying
passenger from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon and back you can benefit from the
most wonderful views of both sides of the Victoria Harbor.
Hong Kong
is more than the glitz and glam of the Central skyscrapers. No trip to this
city is complete without visiting a traditional
neighborhood in the somewhat grubbier yet colorful counterpart of Kowloon, may it be Yau Ma Tei or Mong
Kok.
1. Victoria Peak (The Peak)
Hong Kong
Island’ highest mountain – with an evelation of 552 m – can be reached by
different ways. A nice one is certainly by the Peak Tram. But I would not
recommend it because the waits are too long. Alternatively, I would suggest
that you take the bus. A more strenuous way to reach the Peak is by walking up.
I did this with my family when I was in Hong Kong a short time ago. It is not
an overly easy thing to do, but a rewarding one and it does not take too long.
We – all of us are physically quite fit – had about 1 ¼ hours from Mid-Level
(we took the Mid-Levels Escalator until this point). We had the perfect day for
this undertaking, not too hot and too humid.
Once you
reach the top go to the Peak Tower for a view over Central, Victoria Harbor,
Lamma Island and other islands. Because of the popularity of this place, you
are not going to be on your own. To avoid the hordes of people at the Peak
Tower, you can take a walk along Lugard Road instead.
2. Central District
Central
District is the place where the story of Hong Kong began. Here, south of
Victoria Harbor separating Hong Kong Island from the peninsula of Kowloon, Great
Britain established a small port and community in the 1840s named Victoria in
honor of the queen. Today, Central – as it is simply called – remains Hong
Kong’s business, finance and administrative heart. You find here glass and
steel high-rises, some of the best hotels, shopping malls, an upscale
restaurant/bar scene, but also traces of the old Hong Kong such as some
remaining British colonial buildings and Chinese establishments like street
kitchens, outdoor markets and family-run businesses. This eclectic mix of
cultures makes this area so appealing.
Have a look
at the business district by the water, visit the cultural heritage, walk
through the posh ifc Mall, stroll through idyllic Graham Street Market, eat at
a food stall in the area of Graham Street or around Mid-Levels Escalator, look
out for traditional businesses in the same places and have a refined dinner in
SoHo (South of Hollywood Road), e.g. at Restaurant Aberdeen Street Social.
3. Mid-Levels Escalator
This
ingenious Central – Mid-Levels Escalator is the world’s longest outdoor covered
walkway. It stretches for over 800 meters and you need about 20 minutes to ride
the complete length of it. The escalator travels downward from 6am to 10am to
enable commuters to reach their offices in Central. The rest of the day it travels
upward. It is a great way for tourists to explore the bustling streets of
Central. Get out at some exits, e.g. at Hollywood Road to get in touch with the
lively area (here SoHo, meaning south of Hollywood).
4. Hong Kong Tramways (Ding Ding)
Another
great way to explore the Central area and its surroundings is by tram. These
double-decker trams running parallel to the northern coastline of Hong Kong
Island are by no means the fastest transportation system, but certainly the
most distinctive. They look peculiar because of their height. A short time ago,
one of them toppled over, but do not worry, it happens very seldom! Go to the
upper deck and sit down at the front for best views.
5. Star Ferry
A ride on a
Star Ferry is a must-do activity for every visitor to Hong Kong. The company
carries passengers across Victoria Harbor, between Hong Kong Island and
Kowloon, and this since 1888. The short ride (about 10 minutes) on one of the
electric-diesel vessels with names like Twinkling Star or Meridian Star is such
a relaxing activity, so totally different from the metropolis’s dynamic. In
addition, it gives you the chance of enjoying unrivalled views of Hong Kong’s wonderful
skyline. More to this in the next chapter.
6. Skyline
It is often
said that the view from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island is more beautiful than the
other way around. I agree, but the one from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui (coastal
area of Kowloon) has also something to offer, especially since the
International Commerce Center (ICC) was completed, Hong Kong’s tallest
building. Either way, you get one of the best views of both skylines by riding
the Star Ferry – as indicated in the
last chapter – and let the scenery unfold before your eyes. For best effect,
take your first trip on a clear night from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island as it is
supposed to be the better view.
Apart from
the ferry ride, Hong Kong Island’s skyline can be well viewed from the Tsim Sha
Tsui (coastal area of Kowloon) waterfront. The ideal viewpoint here is probably
in front of the Hotel Intercontinental. Another splendid view of this skyline is
possible from the observation deck on the 100th floor of the above
mentioned International Commerce Center (ICC). On the opposite side (Hong
Kong Island), the 70-storey Bank of China Tower has a viewing gallery on the 43rd
floor from which the Kowloon skyline can be enjoyed. An equally impressive view
– although not open to the public – is also guaranteed from the Four Seasons
Hotel’s Club Lounge on the 45th floor near the International Finance
Centre (IFC), Hong Kong Island’s tallest building.
7. A traditional neighborhood in Kowloon: Yau Ma Tei or Mong Kok
You cannot
go to Hong Kong and only see the new Hong Kong. You must see the old one as
well, where life is rougher than in the Central area and surroundings.
For this
purpose, Kowloon is the right choice. When coming from the south, the Yau Ma
Tei locality is the nearest one. Here masses of people move through the
streets, overcrowded residential buildings and street markets are predominant.
Go there in the late afternoon to experience daily life in full swing. A good
idea is it also to visit Temple Street Night Market. This is supposed to be one
the most beautiful and colorful markets.
Another
bustling neighborhood is Mong Kok. This working-class district is one of the
most populated residential areas in the world. You find there themed street
markets such as the Flower Market, the Bird Garden and the Goldfish Market.
Best time to go to Mong Kok is also when people are out in the streets after
work to go shopping or have dinner.
Overall and outlook
Hong Kong
really is an intriguing metropolis. It is one of the most populated cities
worldwide and becomes more populate each day. It is regarded as cultural
interface between Europe and Asia, a place where soaring high-rises made from
glass and steel meet traditional Chinese everyday life. This interaction
between the new and the old Hong Kong makes this city so interesting to
visitors.
After
having put together the must-sees of Hong Kong, my next post will be on things
to do here when you have more than a few days to spend or when you are a repeatvisitor. Later on, I will also address the issue of where to stay as a discerning
traveler and where to eat as a foodie.
What do you like best about Hong Kong?
What do you like best about Hong Kong?
nice
ReplyDeleteThanks, glad you enjoyed it!
ReplyDelete