2017/08/30

Review of Restaurant Tiefmatt, Holderbank near Olten

Location

Mountain restaurant becomes to a foodies’ destination

At the beginning of this year, the reopening of mountain restaurant Tiefmatt as a part of the Thommen Gastronomie AG – a family-owned company that runs several restaurants in the region of Olten and Aarau – was announced as from March 2017. At the same time, a new concept was presented for this eatery. Instead of an a la carte menu there
is only a fixed four-course menu for foodies and an all-day menu with small bites.


Location/Ambiance

The mountain restaurant is located in the Solothurn Jura about half an hour away from Olten at 809 meters above sea level. While the remote setting is beautiful – when the weather is favorable, you have amazing views of the alpine panorama –, the place is not that easy to reach. There is only a narrow road leading to the Tiefmatt, either from the village of Oberbuchsiten or from the one of Holderbank. You have to come by car, there are no public transportation services to the restaurant.
The Tiefmatt, which by the way offers also five rooms for staying overnight and two rooms for banquets and seminars, was recently renovated. The interior’s decor can best be described as rustic chic with simple wooden tables and chairs. You find here a bar counter where the so-called 3D wine list is presented (all the bottles are lined up beside each other) and a chalk board with the menu of the day. You feel comfortable in here. 
There is also an outdoor area, where my husband and I dined on a warm summer evening with views of the verdant hills, a really nice experience!

Food concept

As already mentioned, there is a fixed four-course menu available, from which you can also order parts of it. Only fresh, seasonal and if possible local ingredients are used to prepare dishes that are refined but not too much so. The cuisine is classic but with a modern touch. The size of the portions is generous, especially as far as the starters and the mains are concerned.

As to the main course, you can choose between meat, fish or a vegetarian option. When we were here, the main course consisted of lamb, which could be replaced by either a beef steak or a beef stroganoff. Apart from this menu of the day, there are small bites on offer just as big salads, beefsteak tartar or tartes flambees (Alsatian pizzas).


Sampled food

On the occasion of our visit, my husband and I opted for the complete four-course menu, which was – as stated above – quite filling.

The start to the dinner made a bowl of green salad with a delicious strawberry-rosemary dressing for the two of us. In addition, we got a small bowl each with poached chicken and pickled cucumber what matched nicely with the salad.
The meal found its continuation in a creamy parsnips soup seasoned with ginger and served in a jug. To that, a salad nicoise was given, an unusual but surprisingly fitting complement.
As a main, we went for the regular meat course consisting of lamb stripes in a light whiskey-cream sauce together with basmati rice and seasonal vegetables. The meat was perfectly prepared, tender and full of taste.
For dessert, a mango parfait was served with a freshly baked, tasty German hazelnut macaroon, which was a good end to a successful meal.

Service/Price

When my husband and I dined at the Tiefmatt, the restaurant manager was responsible for the service, and she did a great job. While being friendly and relaxed, she was also competent and informative, especially when it came to the subject of wine.
The chef was also helping out in the service when needed. He informed about the menu of the day and took orders, a nice touch. Speaking of the chef, Christian von Burg oversees the kitchen now. When the Tiefmatt was opened half a year ago, another one was in charge, Sascha Berther, awarded with one star Michelin and 16 points Gault Millau. As far as the current chef is concerned, I have no knowledge of his career.

Dining at this eatery is very good value indeed, the four-course menu for SFR 58 is very affordable compared to other restaurants in the area and given the quality.


Overall


The secluded mountain restaurant Tiefmatt underwent a change to a foodies’ place in March. The setting is amazing and the eatery impresses with a rustic chic ambiance, an innovative casual fine dining concept as well as a hospitable and knowledgeable service. If you are into well-made classic cuisine with a twist and if you are an experienced mountain driver (Uphill drive on a narrow street!) or have such a driver at your disposal, give it a try!


·      Costs: menu (fixed): 4 courses 58.00 SFR, all-day menu small bites 14.50 – 30.00 SFR
·      Cuisine: Mid-range, mix of rustic and modern cuisine
·      Address: Tiefmattstrasse 109, 4718 Holderbank, Tel +41 62 390 20 60, E-Mail info@tiefmatt.ch

Date of visit: August 2017

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